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History of the Tuxedo
Before the Tuxedo
The notion of a man
“dressing up” after the sun goes down, whether it be in
top hat and tails or simply in his best finery, has been
with us for centuries. In fact, in the great European
opera houses of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries,
the “dress circle” meant just that, with no one allowed
in unless he or she was properly attired.
However, the idea of wearing black for evening wear was,
according to the English clothing historian James Laver,
first introduced by the nineteenth century British
writer Edward Bulwer-Lytton, who utilized it “as a
romantic gesture to show that he was a ‘blighted being’
and very, very melancholy.”
And it was Bulwer-Lytton who gave further impetus to
this notion of black as a color for formal wear by
writing, in 1828, that “people must be very
distinguished to look well in black.” Naturally, the
moment this statement was noted by would-be dandies, the
style became decidedly de rigueur, and it wasn’t long
before black became popular for daytime wear as well.
Although for years white tie and tails were the
traditional mode of formal attire, the introduction of
the dinner jacket added another viable alternative form
which the well-dressed gentleman could choose.
The original dinner jacket was simply an adaptation of
the “Cowes” jacket – a sort of compromise between a mess
jacket, a smoking jacket, and a dress coat – invented
for or by King Edward VII when he was Prince of Wales,
and worn by him first at dinner aboard his yacht at
Cowes and then later at other semi-formal evening
gatherings away from London. The original
single-breasted model was simply a tailcoat without a
tail, worn with white pique, vest and later with a
matching black vest of the same fabric as the jacket and
trousers.
The Lore, The Lure, The Legend
All variety of fact and fiction surrounds the origin of
“Tuxedo” and the elegant garment that bears its name.
It is said, for example, that the custom of the
Algonquians was to name a place after the chief whose
tribe occupied it, and that there was such named
P’tauk-Seet, “the bear,” who, in the Seventeenth
Century, ruled over a tract of land including what is
now known as Tuxedo Combining P’Tauk-Seet-tough, “The
Home of the Bear.”
Another version holds that the Indians called this area
of lakes and hills, P’Tauk/Sepo, or so it was translated
phonetically by the Dutch in their initial land grants.
Since the Indians had no written language, these are the
best records available.
1754
In written records dating back to 1754, these are
references to Tuxedo Pond and later on, Tuxcito Pond,
Tuxetough, Tucksito, Tugseto, Tucseto, Tuxedo, Texedo,
and Toxedo.
The Marquis de Chastellux, in 1780, writes it as a Duck
Sider and Duck Seeder. And in histories of the area
dated 1857 and 1875, the name is corrupted to Duck Cedar
with the explanation that the region is overgrown with
cedar trees and is a favorite haunt of wild ducks.
1852
The Lorillard family began acquiring land in the Tuxedo
area in 1800’s and by 1852, had come into possession of
most of what had been known as the Cheescock Patent.
They turned it into an elite hunting and fishing resort
– a millionaire’s haven. With a labor force largely
imported from Italy by Pierre Lorillard, they
constructed a series of homes within the walled park in
a matter of several months that stand today as a
testament to the skill of the artisans. It was Tuxedo
Park – High Society forty miles to the northwest of New
York City.
1885
As the gilt-edged society of Tuxedo Park developed its
own social schedule, some new names began to appear. For
example, there was lames Brown Potter, one of the
founders of Tuxedo Park, who was elected to membership
in the Tuxedo Club at the organizational meeting held at
Delmonico’s, in New York City in November 1885.
According to the archives, Mr. Potter was introduced to
the idea of the Dinner Jacket by the Prince of Wales,
who later became Edward VII.
1886
The first Autumn Ball, held at the Tuxedo Club in
October 1886, is marked as the official first appearance
of the Dinner Jacket. Then, it is said Griswold
Lorillard and his friends started the people attending
the ball by wearing a scarlet satin lapelled Dinner
Jacket – tailless while all others were attired in the
traditional white –tie and tails. And thus was born the
elegant garment forever more to be known as the “Tuxedo”
– adapted by people rich and poor as a symbol of
celebration. Good Times and Special Occasions;
designated by the motion picture industry as its symbol
for the high society, class and elegance, and even a
symbol for hope for better days during the Depression
Days of the Thirties, defined by the tastemakers and
standard bearers as the appropriate garb for those
events in an individual’s life when only a tradition of
elegance
will do.
Tuxedo Styles
There are 6 different tuxedo lengths that are used
today:
1.) Tail Coat
The most formal evening design ending abruptly in the
front at waist length and stretching roughly to the back
of the knee in the rear
2.) Cutaway
The mot formal day design that slowly cuts away from the
button to the back of the knee in a slight curve
3.) Waistcoat
A formal coat ending its full length at the waist
4.) Dinner Coat
A traditional length coat that ends at mid thigh
5.) Fashion Length
A more modern style ending in length usually between
1-6” longer than the Dinner Coat
6.) ¾ Length
Very modern style extending in length just below the
knees
There are 3 different button styles that are used today
1.) Single Breasted
The most traditional of styles, buttoning in one single
line, number of buttons range from 1-7, able to be worn
buttoned or unbuttoned
2.) Double Breasted
An older formal style, carrying 2 columns of buttons,
ranging from 2-6 buttons, made to be worn buttoned at
all times
3.) No Buttons
Traditionally this style is only on tailcoats, and waist
coats, but can sometimes appear in more
modern styles.
There are 4 basic lapel
styles that all coats fit into:
Notch Lapel
Peak Lapel
Shawl Lapel
The trick lapel covers any lapel style that cannot
somehow fit into the notch, peak, or shawl styles (ex.
Mandarin collar)
Wedding Formalwear
Guide
Contemporary (More modern)
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Very Formal
Evening |
Semi-Formal
Evening |
Very Formal
Daytime |
Formal
Evening |
Second and
Later Weddings
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Groom |
Black full dress
(tailcoat), white or other color tailcoat
acceptable. Shirt coordinates with tailcoat, tie
and vest match tailcoat in color, except if
wearing black full dress wear white wing collar
pique shirt with white pique vest and bow.
Shoes: Patent. |
Tuxedo or tailcoat,
in range of colors – dark for fall and winter,
pastels for spring and summer, white for any
time of year. Shirt white or coordinate with
tuxedo in color; may be pleated or flat. Shoes:
Patent. |
Updated cutaway.
Usually grey, with striped or matching trousers,
white shirt striped tie or ascot; or tuxedo in
conservative colors, dark for winter or all grey
cutaway outfit with wing or fold collar formal
shirt and striped grey ascot or four-in-hand
tie.
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Black tuxedo, white
pleated formal shirt, bow tie, vest or
cummerbund to match tuxedo lapels. White dinner
jacket with formal dinner jacket with formal
trousers for summer or tropical climate. |
Formalwear
appropriate to time of year, time of day, and
style of the bride and her attendants. |
|
Ushers and Junior
Groomsmen |
Similar to groom in
style. Most formal: identical tailcoat suits.
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Formalwear similar
to groom in style, however, if groom chooses a
tailcoat ushers can wear similar color tuxedos.
Shirts white or coordinate with tuxedos in
color, ties and vests match tuxedos.
|
Similar to groom in
style, or can wear matching stroller coats with
striped or matching trousers. Usually same color
as groom. |
Similar to groom,
coordinated in color. |
Similar to groom,
coordinated in color. |
|
Fathers |
Same as groom or
same as ushers, or in classic tuxedo. |
Similar to ushers,
or in classic black tuxedo. |
Same as groom or
same as ushers, or in classic tuxedo. |
Either similar to
the male attendants or formalwear of own choice. |
Same as groom or
same as ushers. |
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Guests |
Formalwear similar
to groom. For an elegant mood specify “Black
Tie” on invitation; guests will wear black
tuxedos.
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Formal wear
optional. For an elegant mood, specify “Black
Tie” on invitation. |
Formalwear optional.
|
Formal wear
optional. |
Similar to groom.
Specify on invitations if you want your guests
to dress formally. |
|
Ring Bearer |
Same as
groom or groomsmen
|
Same as
groom or groomsmen |
Same as
groom or
groomsmen |
Same as
groom or groomsmen |
Same as groom or
groomsmen |
Traditional (Classic)
| |
Very Formal
Evening
|
Formal
Evening |
Very Formal
Daytime |
Semi-Formal
Daytime |
|
Groom |
Black full dress
(tailcoat) with white wing collar pique
formal shirt, white pique vest and bow.
Shoes: Patent. May ear sprig from the
bride’s bouquet as boutonniere. |
Black tuxedo,
white pleated formal shirt, bow tie, vest of
cummerbund to match tuxedo lapels. White
dinner jacket with formal trousers for
summer or tropical climate.
|
Cutaway coat,
grey striped trousers, grey vest, ascot, or
striped four-in-hand tie. Optional top hat,
spats, grey gloves. Shoes: Patent.
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Grey stroller,
with striped trousers, pearl grey vest,
four-in-hand tie with white pleated formal
shirt. Optional: homburg gloves. |
|
Ushers and
Junior Groomsmen |
Identical to
groom, with different boutonniere. |
Same as groom,
perhaps with different boutonniere.
|
Similar to groom
in style, with possible variation in tie or
shirt. |
Identical to
groom, perhaps with different boutonniere. |
|
Fathers |
Identical to
groom, with different boutonniere.
|
Same as ushers. |
Same as groom or
same as ushers. |
Same as groom or
same as ushers. |
|
Guests |
May wear
tuxedos, or if you specify “White Tie” on
invitations guest should wear full dress
identical to groom. |
Should be
formally dressed. Specify “Black Tie” on
invitations. |
You may suggest
“Traditional Morning Attire” on invitations,
if you would like your guests to be formally
dressed. They would then choose formalwear
similar to the groom’s.
|
Formalwear
optional. |
|
Ring Bearer |
Identical to
groom/groomsmen.
|
Identical to
groom/groomsmen. |
Identical to
groom/groomsmen. |
Identical to
groom/groomsmen. |
Etiquette
In this day and age not much about tuxedo etiquette
is known or followed. Here are some tuxedo etiquette
facts to help you:
Type of event: White tie (Most Formal)
Black Tailcoat & Pants
White Shirt, Open-back vest (or cummerbund), and bow
tie
Black Formal shoes
White Gloves
Black Tie (Very Formal)
Black (or white) Tuxedo Coat & Black Pants
White Shirt
Black Cummerbund (or vest) and Bow Tie
Formal Shoes
Black Tie Optional (Preferred Formal)
Black (or white) Tuxedo (or suit) Coat & Black Pants
White Shirt
Any Accessories
Time of Event:
After 5pm - Same as White Tie
2pm-5pm - Same as Black Tie
Before 2pm -
Black or Grey Cutaway Coat
Stripped or Black Pants
White Shirt
Black or Grey Open-back Vest
Ascot
Brides Train Length:
Cathedral Length (8ft or longer) - Same as White Tie
Chappel Length (4ft-8ft) - Same as Black Tie
Sweep Length (under 4 ft) - Same as Black Tie
Optional
Event Location:
Cathedral - Same as White Tie
Chappel or Church - Same as Black Tie
Outside or Dining hall or other - Same as Black Tie
Optional
# of Guests:
300+ Same as White Tie
50-300 Same as Black Tie
1-50 Same as Black Tie Optional
Definitions
Ascot (as-kot) - A cravat with wide square
ends; secured with an ornamental pin.
Besom (be’-zum) - Narrow welted edging on
coat body above pocket lip.
Black Tie Invited - An event where a tuxedo
or a dinner jacket may be worn but is not required.
If not a tuxedo, proper Dressy Attire - coat
and tie is necessary.
Black Tie Required - An event where a tuxedo
or dinner jacket is required. Don’t even think about
attending without one.
Boutonniere (boo’-tah-neer’) - A flower or
small bunch of flowers worn in a button hole. From
Old French, buttonhole.
Bow Tie - Standard formal attire. Wide array
of fabrics, colors and patterns. Black is always a
preferred choice. Available usually pre-tied with a
neck band to wear on a wing-collar or dress-collar
shirt. Be bold; buy black a silk tie that you tie
yourself. Very James Bond-like.
Braces - The English term for suspenders.
Usually of the button-on variety but also available
as clip-on.
Button Cover - Decorative gold or silver
ornamentation that locks over the top button of a
mandarin collar shirt. Popular in the 90s.
Cane - A straight black cane with white tips
on both ends. Traditionally carried when wearing
“white tie and tails”. Usually accompanied by white
gloves and top hat.
Continental Vest (aka waistcoat) - A backless vest
designed to accommodate varied sizes of men.
Available in a wide array of colors and fabric
patterns. With the exception of boys sizes and
extra-large sizes, vest comes as a ‘one size fits
all.’ Includes adjustable strapping at the back of
the neck for length and across the lower back to
adjust the waist.
Cuff Links - Traditional formal attire.
Usually available in gold, silver, silver plate,
gold plate, and nickel-plate. Normally coordinated
with four shirt studs worn on the front placket of
the shirt in lieu of buttons.
Cummerbund (kum’-er’bund’) - A broad sash,
especially one that is pleated lengthwise and worn
as an article of the formal dress, as with a dinner
jacket. Worn so the open sides of the pleats are up
(as if to hold opera tickets).
Cutaway (aka morning coat) - Classic daytime
formal attire that used to be worn only for events
prior to noon. Now acceptable up until
mid-afternoon, but never for evenings. A charcoal
grey or black coat with a long coachman back. The
front of the coat “cuts away” from the button down.
Worn with a dove grey or black vest, stripped or
pin-dot ascot, wing collar shirt, and either striped
or nail head pants. Black formal shoes or dress
calfskin shoes are a must.
Dinner Jacket - Traditionally, for summer,
white, off-white or Sahara tan. Panama weave, single
or double breasted, self faced shawl collar dinner
jacket with black formal trousers. Worn with a white
pleated wing-collar or spread-collar shirt.
Drop - The number of inches smaller the
trouser waist of a suit is than the coat. A size 40
regular suit, for example, usually has 6 inch
trouser drop… a 34 inch waist.
Fedora (fi-dôr’-uh) - A soft left hat with a
fairly low crown creased lengthwise and a brim that
can be turned up or down.
Four-in-Hand - The simplest of neckwear knots
to tie. Name comes from a coach being drawn by four
horses in two teams, driven in tandem by a single
person. Young blades took up the sport, organized
into clubs and adopted the professional coachman’s
tie as a mark of distinction. A four-in-hand is a
small knot for wear with a narrow spread collar.
Fullback Vest (aka waistcoat) - Similar to a
continental vest but with a full satin back like on
a traditional three-piece suit. Usually found with
an adjustable strap across the lower back to
cinch-in any excess fabric. Available in as many as
eight sizes.
Gorge - The seam on a coat where collar meets
lapel.
Hacking Pocket - A Slanted flap pocket on a
coat. Rarely found in formal wear.
Handkerchief (aka pocket square) - A silk or
satin fabric square folded in a variety of manners
and placed in the outer breast pocket of a tuxedo.
Does not have to match the vest but should
complement the colors in the tie or the vest.
Herringbone - Classic zigzag effect
resembling the backbone of a herring. Achieved by
altering the direction
of twill.
Iridescent - Contrasting warp and filling
yarns giving a two-color effect.
Jacquard - An intricate, variegated,
self-pattern weave with clear finish. Named for the
Frenchman who invented the loom in the early 19th
century.
Lapel (lah’-pel) - The part of a coat that is
turned back; the fold of the front of a coat that is
usually a continuation of the collar.
Low Rise - The difference between inseam and
outseam of trousers. (Normal rise for size 32
regular, for example, is 10 7/8” (10 1/8” for 32
short and 11 1/8 for 32 long. Rise increases 1/8”
for each increase in waist size.)
Notched (Notch) Lapel - Type of lapel
on which the top line slants down in line with the
collar seam.
Paisley - A fabric woven or printed with
colorful curved (amoeba-like) abstract figures.
Peaked (Peak) Lapel - Type of lapel on
which the top line slant up from the horizontal.
Pima - Fine grade, long bred staple
crossbreed of Sea Island and Egyptian cotton,
developed in Pima County, Arizona.
Ply - One of the strands in a yarn, 2-ply
would indicate that two strands have been twisted
together to make one yarn.
Pump - Type of low-cut, slip-on shoe for
formal evening wear. Does not have laces or straps.
Usually has an ornamental grosgrain ribbon bow in
front. Made of patent leather or dull calf.
Shawl Collar - An un-notched lapel with not
gorge.
Tartan - A plaid textile design of stripes of
varying width and color against a solid ground,
patterned to designate a clan.
Twill - A textile weave in which filling
yarns pass over one and under two or more warp yarns
producing a diagonal rib.
Twist - A yarn formed by twisting two or more
strands together. Different colored yarns are often
used for unusual color effect.
Under basting - The temporary sewing together
of two pieces of fabric to assure perfect pattern
matches. Threads are removed at final pressing.
Under pressing - Pressing on the reverse side
of the fabric to mold it so it will retain its
shape.
Vent - Slit a center or sides on the bottom
of the back of a jacket or coat.
Welt - A raised double edge, strip, insert,
or seam for ornament or reinforcement.
Windsor - The largest of the three neckwear
knot styles. Worn with wide spread collar shirts.
(Half-Windsor is worn with medium spread collar).
Worsted - A smooth, compact yarn form long
wool fibers, used for smooth, firm,
compact fabrics.
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